Cleo Dress

Like the rest of the sewing universe, I’m sooooo in love with this pattern!  To tell you the truth, I’ve never been entirely sold on dungaree dresses – I’m quite curvy and always thought they would just make me look a bit round.  Enter Cleo, who started popping up on everyone’s Instagram feeds and seemed to be universally flattering 🙂

So, my friend Rachel and I decided we’d ‘host’ a #SewingCleo Insta-party, along with many fellow sewists.  Off we went to the Centre Front Studio to get up to mischief.

img_3252
Alex, Isabel, Charlotte, Rachel and me at the end of our #SewingCleo party

Now, it was an interesting day, our Cleo party – kind of a plague on all our houses.  Rachel’s machine broke a couple of hours in (luckily, the studio had spares she could use, but that was still very disorienting for her).  A couple of days later, my sister and I were trying to finish our Cleos and both our machines started doing very strange things, before mine finally gave up the ghost entirely.  Rachel and Charlotte have since managed to fix their machines with a bit of TLC, but I had to succumb to buying a new one (yay!).  Anyway, it wasn’t until a few weeks after the party, when we’d all dealt with our respective machine dramas that we’d all eventually finished our Cleos, and boy are we glad we did.

The pattern
In case you hadn’t already gathered, it’s Tilly and the Buttons’ Cleo.  I’m wearing it here with my refashioned Agnes top.

Modifications
None, in the end, but I did spend a lot of time debating whether I should do proper flat-felled seams.  Maybe next time.  Also, next time I will staystitch all the curves.  I didn’t this time because the pattern doesn’t advise it (at least, I don’t think it does), but when I came to attach my facings the shell had stretched out of shape, particularly at the back, which made it so difficult to sew.  I’ll staystitch next time to try to avoid similar difficulties.

The fabric
A fairly stable classic indigo denim from John Lewis.

The cost
This is truly shocking, but I genuinely can’t remember.  About £15 for 1.2 metres, I think.  The dungaree clips were £2.50 from a local department store (Fenwick’s, if you’re a northerner) and the topstitching thread was around £2.  Let’s call it £20 then (although that doesn’t include the cost of the pattern).

I absolutely love m first Cleo!  I’m even very impressed with my topstitching, which is the part I was dreading the most – if you’re going to topstitch with violently yellow thread, you’ve got to get it right!  I’ve already bought myself a Cleo kit for Cleo number 2.  I went for aubergine needlecord, because, purple ❤  I can’t wait to sew it up, but goodness knows when I’ll fit it in with such a busy sewing year ahead!

Advertisements

Molly Top

Who doesn’t love a staple Breton striped top?  You can’t have too many of them, I feel – they’re perfect for casual jeans days and layering.

The pattern: the Molly top from Lisa Comfort’s My Capsule Wardrobe: City Break e-book.  This is only my second make from this book so far (following on from my Alex shirt), but I assure you I’ll be making it all at some point!  All the patterns are so beautiful, and they really do make a capsule wardrobe 🙂   This pattern couldn’t be an easier sew!  What makes it so easy is the sleeves.  They’re grown on at the cap and the length comes from adding the bottom half of the sleeve later on.  It’s added in the flat and the seam line is virtually straight – much easier than set in sleeves.  I think I sewed this top in a couple of hours – super speedy!  I also tried a new stitch on my sewing machine for the top stitching and I love it.  The only thing I will change next time is the size.  I think I could go down a sizer at least, especially if I want to try the dress version – I don’t want the dress to be too relaxed in fit.  Actually, now that I’m thinking about it, I bet this would be very easy to take in.  Hmmmmm…

The fabric: a lovely purple and cream stripe from Girl Charlee UK.  This fabric is super soft and comfortable.  I have a little left which will most definitely be used for something – I’m thinking the cropped Megan Nielson Briar tee for Sew My Style because it’s drapes nicely.

The cost: I got the fabric while Girl Charlee were having a sale, so it only cost £10.90 for two metres.  I already had everything else I needed 🙂  And as I say, I think I have enough left to squeeze another top out of it, so that’ll make it even more of a bargain.

2017 Sewing Resolutions

Happy New Year, everyone!  I hope you’ve all started the year with a bang 🙂

I can already see that 2017 is going to be a busy year for sewing – hurrah!  As well as once again vowing to sew from my stash and have fewer works in progress (I must start finishing garments before starting another project!), I’ve decided to take part in two challenges, so I’m going to have an awful lot on my plate.  With that in mind, I thought I’d attempt to get organised and write down some resolutions.  If I have it written down here, I’ll feel more obliged to complete them, right?


Firstly, I signed up for Sew My Style, thought up by Alex over at Bluebird Fabrics.  This is a brilliant initiative promoting the slow fashion movement (something I feel very strongly about!) and encouraging young people to learn to sew.  The general idea is to sew a set garment each month for the whole year – you can read much more about it here and also take a peak at the schedule.  Lots of big names are involved – you’ll find By Hand London, Named Clothing and Megan Nielsen in there.  It’s just going to be brilliant!

The second challenge I’ll be getting involved with is Make Nine, which is the brainchild of Rochelle over at Lucky Lucille.  This is a list of nine projects to complete throughout the year.  Now, luckily for me, a couple of my Make Nine goals are actually covered in Sew My Style – score!  That will give me a little less to do.  We already know the schedule for Sew My Style,  but without further ado, let me share my Make Nine resolutions list with you.  They are in no particular order here, but I’ll probably do everything seasonally once I get going.

1. Make a coat.
I now have three or four coat patterns lined up in my stash (e.g. Papercut’s Watson and Sew Over It’s Lola from My Capsule Wardrobe), but one thing is for sure: I will at least be sewing up the Named Clothing Yona coat for Sew My Style in September, even if I don’t pluck up the courage to start the others.

2. A new Coco.
I love my first Tilly and the Buttons Coco so much!  So much, in fact, that I’m going to make a second one that is virtually identical to it.  I already have the fabric and everything.

3. Isabelle’s advent calendar.
My sewing machine broke in November before I had time to finish my lovely niece’s advent calendar, so this is on the ‘must finish’ list for next year.  I’m basing it on this lovely calendar by Amy at Stitchery Dickory Dock (excellent name!).  I’ve since managed to fix my stupid machine by the way, by simply opening it up and giving it a very thorough clean and DIY service – the problem probably had a lot to do with a very mangled pin caught in the mechanism.  Whoops!

4. Complete at least one knitted garment.
And I do not mean the cardigan I’m 95% finished, I promise!  I mean something new.  I have two possibilities lined up – this, which I’ll lengthen to make a dress, or this, which just makes me go all heart-eyed.  Thoughts?

5. Sew Over It City Break Molly dress.
I have some lovely navy and cream ponte from Sewn Bristol lined up for this – I’m ready to channel my nautical chic!

6. Complete my Dropcloth sampler.
Won’t this be a lovely addition to my sewing space?!  It’ll be a nice project to get along with while I’m commuting.  Yes, I’m one of *those* people who knits and sews on public transport.

7. Make a pair of trousers.
My first trouser making experience was not a great success.  I’ve been putting it off and off and off…  I need to overcome the fear.  No matter what, I’ll be attempting the Cali Faye Hampshire trousers in October for Sew My Style.

8. Closet Case Files Carolyn pyjamas.
I hope to get at least one pair done in January in nice, warm fabric.  I think my sister and I are going to make matching hedgehog pyjamas – eak, so excited!

9. Something involving sequins. 
In a fit of complete madness, and in a haze of all the beautiful sequinned fabrics we saw at the Knitting and Stitching Show in Harrogate, my friend Rachel and I made a pact to make ‘something sequinned’ in time for Christmas next year.  We’re resting our hopes on Harrogate having lots of lovely sequinned fabrics on offer again in 2017, so we can pick up our fabric there and make something in the following weeks.  Any tips anyone has on sewing with sequins would be gratefully received 🙂

So there you have it – my sewing resolutions for 2017.  I’m going to try to stick to them as much as I can.  I will try to be good and not stray too far away from the plan.  Wish me luck!

Sew Dots Take 2

Hello, everybody!  I hope you all had a lovely Christmas.  I had a lovely time visiting family in the Midlands and down south, before heading back home to end the festivities.  It’s safe to say I’ve indulged far too much, as one does at this time of year.  I hope your Christmases have been just as enjoyable 🙂

I thought it was about time I shared my second Sew Dots project with you all (check out my first one here).  It’s been so long since Sew Dots, but I fell ill when the time came to get some photos of my makes, so I didn’t get proper photos until recently.

The pattern: the Lilou dress from Love at First Stitch by Tilly Walnes, from Tilly and the Buttons.  As always, the instructions are excellent and the end product doesn’t disappoint 🙂  Anyone else hoping Tilly will release another book sometime?

Modifications: I added sleeves (I used the sleeve head from Mimi in Love at First Stitch, and just drew a line at the length I wanted), side seam pockets (obviously), and I self-drafted a neckline facing instead of lining the bodice.  I also added pom-pom trim to the hem as my tactile feature 🙂  I also may need to make a future alteration – even though I have been busy making toiles of this dress, this one has (annoyingly) still come up a little bit big.  Sigh.  My most recent toile fitted perfectly, so I think it must just be the weave of the cotton.  Luckily, I think I’ll just need to take the side seams in a little rather than make any huge adjustments.

The fabric: a Dashwood Studios cotton from Plush Addict, which is still available at the time of me writing this.  That hardly ever happens!  Being a cotton, it was really easy to work with.

The cost: two metres of fabric at £12 each, an invisible zip and some pom-pom trim.  Getting on for £30 for this one.

On the day I first wore this dress, despite being too disgusting to be in front of a camera, I still managed to host a cake day at work.  I’d like to thank everyone who took part in our little dotty party – whether you baked, wore dots, or donated money.  Between us all we were able to raise £120 for the RNIB!  And another big thank you to Rosie Martin for thinking this whole thing up.  There’s a round up of Rosie’s favourites here 🙂

Sew Dots Take 1

If you sew, and if you use Instagram or Twitter, you must know about the #SewDots campaign.  Sew Dots was brought to us by the wonderful Rosie Martin, author of the recently published No Patterns Needed.  When she’s not sewing or writing books about sewing, Rosie does fantastic work for the RNIB – the Royal National Institute of Blind People – helping people with visual impairments use modern technologies, such as mobile phones.  Sew Dots came as an extension of the RNIB’s Wear Dots Raise Lots, a campaign aimed at highlighting the impact of Braille, and Rosie, because she’s brilliant, thought she could rally up fellow dressmakers to try to raise even more awareness.  The idea was to sew something dotty (dots like Braille), share your creation/s on Twitter or Instagram and donate £5 to Rosie’s Just Giving page.  I sewed, and I donated, so let me share my first Sew Dots project with you.

The fabric: a white Swiss dot I picked up on eBay.  I liked the idea of Swiss dot because I wanted my projects to have 3D elements.  The dots on this fabric are perfectly reminiscent of Braille.

The pattern: I’m sure you’ve seen the latest release from Lisa Comfort at Sew Over It.  My Capsule Wardrobe: City Break has taken the sewing world by storm.  And rightfully so, everything in that e-book is beautiful!  This is my first (of many, I’m sure!) make from it – the Alex shirt.

Modifications: just two.  I used the tab from the Tilly and the Buttons Bettine pattern instead of the one provided, as the Bettine tab was a bit wider and less fiddly.  Because I’m lazy – there, I said it.  Also because I’m lazy, I was very naughty and didn’t bother with the buttonholes.  The shirt is so loose fitting that it slips over my head just fine.  In fact, I may even go down a size for my next Alex Shirt.

The cost: the fabric was £6.99 per metre.  I bought three metres, but didn’t use it all.  I used self-cover buttons, which were £2.50.  In total, that’s about £23.50.

I think Rosie has struck gold with this idea, and I’m really hoping it sticks around in future years.  This is something that means a lot to me.  I don’t think I’ve mentioned before that my father is blind.  He uses the services provided by the RNIB extensively, especially their talking book and Braille libraries.  I know he would be lost without books.  The work the RNIB does really is invaluable, and I’m a fan of any campaigns that support their work.

Vintage Vogue 9126 Pattern Hack

My blog has been shamefully neglected recently, but I have something extra exciting to share with you today – my first magazine feature!  I was asked months ago (it’s been torture keeping this to myself!) whether I’d like to be involved with a pattern hacking feature for Sew Style Vintage.  You know I love pattern hacking and refashioning and the like, so I jumped at the chance.

I won’t into my usual detail on here, as it’s all in the feature, but I wanted to share this exciting news and some photos of my finished hack 🙂  I was very kindly sent the Vogue 9126 pattern and a lovely viscose fabric with a vintage rose print.  The feature also shows off a beautiful hack by Abi over at Crafty Pinup – how lovely is her 50s frock?

The magazine is available in WH Smith stores at the moment, or you can buy a copy here if you like.  It’s a very pretty magazine, definitely one to keep, and it includes both Vogue patterns used by myself and Abi, as well as the pattern for the blue spotty dress you can see on the cover – 20 projects in total, so it’s well worth its £9.99 price tag.

Thank you so much to Sew Style Vintage for asking me to take part and printing my hack!  It’s been a real pleasure, and I’m so happy to be included in such a beautiful publication 🙂

#therefashioners2016

My #therefashioners2016 project is finally finished 🙂 To tell you the truth, I finished it weeks ago – it’s just been waiting for its hem.  When I tried to hem it the first time my machine had a strop, so I threw it to one side for a while.

For those of you who don’t know, the Refashioners is the brainchild of Portia Lawrie from the Makery.  Each year, Portia chooses a garment and encourages the sewing community to transform said garment into something else.  Last year it was a button down shirt, and this year it’s the turn of jeans.

My ’70s style, paneled mini is by far the most boring transformation I’ve seen this year, but I knew I would wear it, and for me that’s the whole point of refashioning.  What’s the point in making something so crazy you’ll never wear it?  Anyway, even though it isn’t the most exciting refashion you’ll see, there was one thing about it that I found very exciting – flat felled seams.  I’ve never done them before, and I don’t think I’ve had a bad first go at it!  There are a couple of wobbly bits, but not so wobbly that I felt the need to unpick.  I’ve paired it up here with my dachshund Agnes top.

The fabric: cut from a pair of size 16 jeans found in a charity shop.

The pattern: the paneled skirt from the Simple Sew Chelsea collection, which came free with Love Sewing magazine a couple of months ago.  I don’t think it’s available to buy separately yet.

Modifications: my jeans weren’t wide enough to cut the back panel in one piece, so I ended up adding seam allowance and cutting two, giving me a centre back seam and an extra panel.  As I mentioned before, I had trouble with the hem – my sewing machine could not cope with a double turned hem on such thick denim, especially where the flat felled seams were involved.  In the end, I just overlocked the bottom and did a single turned hem.  Even that wasn’t good enough for me sewing machine – I have a couple of skipped stitches and it was making some truly horrendous noises.  I’m actually quite worried that I won’t be able to make jeans on my machine…

The cost: the jeans were £2.50 and I spent a couple of quid on some topstitching thread.  The buttons were from my stash.  With the cost of the magazine the pattern came with, I’d say about £10.

Thanks so much to Portia for hosting this again – I can’t wait for next year.

The Seamstress Tag

I have something a little different today — the Seamstress Tag! The Seamstress Tag was thought up by Hollie, over at Hollie Sews, and started out in the vlog-osphere, but I’ve decided to hop on the bandwagon, as it’s a rather marvellous idea. Thanks, Hollie! It’s a series of twelve questions, mostly about sewing — let’s get straight to it.

1. Who are you?
My name is Victoria, and I live in Durham, England, where it’s cold and wet most of the time so there’s no such thing as a seasonal wardrobe for me. I live with my other half, Anthony, and our very energetic dog, Riley. When I’m not sewing, I’m a librarian.

2. When and why did you start sewing?
I started sewing in late April/early May of 2014, so I’ve been at it for around two and a half years now (though I still feel like I’m only just starting out sometimes!). I signed up for a ‘Dressmaking for Beginners’ course with a couple of friends — we learned all the skills needed to make a skirt — and I’ve never looked back. We went on to do the continuations course and ‘advanced’ course, which was really more of a sewing bee. I could not have learned to sew without the help of our wonderful tutors, Dan and Rory, who now run the Centre Front Studio in Newcastle. I can’t thank them enough. If I’d tried to teach myself it would have been a disaster, I’m sure. As for why I started sewing — well, I’ve always liked vintage clothes and I’ve always been crafty, so I thought it was about time I combined the two and made my own clothes. And now I’m well on my way to having a handmade wardrobe!

3. What is your favourite or proudest make?
Can I please choose one for each? They’re both Tilly and the Buttons patterns. My favourite make, the one I wear a lot on an every day basis, is my second Bettine dress. Love the fabric, love the print, love the fit — I just love it. My proudest make is my Francoise dress, which was a runner up in Tilly’s #SewingFrancoise contest. I had only been sewing for a few months, and it was the first project that made me think I might actually be alright at this dressmaking lark.

4. What is your most disastrous make?
It has to be the New Look 6446 jumpsuit, which I talked about extensively in this blog post. There really wasn’t much that was right with it. I’m not too disheartened though — I really like the pattern, so I’m going to toile it next time and work through all the crotch issues.

5. Where is your favourite place to go fabric shopping?
Well, I live in the back end of nowhere, so I don’t really have a local shop I can go to. I do most of my fabric shopping online. My favourites are Sew Over It, Fabric Godmother, Plush Addict, the Textile Centre, and Girl Charlee UK. I will need some jersey soon (I’m planning about fifty Molly tops/dresses from Lisa Comfort’s My Capsule Wardrobe: City Break) and I guarantee that will be purchased from Girl Charlee.

6. What is your most used pattern?
Thanks to One Week One Pattern 2016, Tilly’s Bettine is my most used pattern (see my recent blog posts). However, as soon as I have perfected Lilou (from Love at First Stitch), I suspect that will take over.

7. Your most dreaded sewing task is…?
I hate unpicking (obviously), trimming seam allowances, clipping corners and curves, or anything else that can result in holes in your fabric if you make any false moves. It’s the most dreaded fear, that I might hike my fabric in the wrong place, so I hate all of those tasks, even though it very rarely goes wrong. Please don’t let me have just jinxed myself!

8. And your favourite sewing task?
It sounds really sad, but my favourite part is giving everything a final press at the end. That’s right — that final iron. Not only does it mean the project is finished (yay!), but it makes the garment look all shiny and new! Pressing makes such a huge difference, from start to finish — it’s tempting to skip all that ironing, but your garment would suffer for it.

9. What is your favourite sewing entertainment?
I like to have sound in the background when I sew, whether it’s a box set, an audiobook, or music. More recently I’ve been favouring box sets (or Netflix) over anything else though. Highlights include Once Upon A Time, Brooklyn Nine-Nine and Emma. An eclectic mix.

10. Printed or PDF?
As a general rule, if there’s a printed pattern available that’s what I’ll choose to buy. They’re just nice to have. I do by the occasional PDF, but usually only if there’s no printed option. I have so many fit issues that I need to trace off all of my patterns anyway, so when I have to stick fifty sheets of paper together on top of tracing it does me in. Printed all the way.

11. What sewing machine do you use?
I have the Brother RL417. It’s a very basic machine but it serves me quite well. I think it might need a service because it’s started making the occasional funny noise. I’ve just started to crave a new, more advanced/sturdy machine. If there’s one fault with the one I already have, it’s that it really doesn’t cope with thicker fabrics very well. For instance, I’ve just hemmed a denim skirt with flat felled seams and it was a nightmare. It made horrible noises and kept getting stuck and skipped stitches — stress! I’d like a machine that can cope with all fabrics. I also have an overlocker — a Singer 14SH754 — which seems to work okay. However, I can’t even pretend that I use it to its full potential. I spent the first six months (at least) ignoring it out of fear, and now I’ve just about taught myself how to thread it up two different ways. That’s all I need for now.

12. Do you have any other hobbies?
Yes! I knit, when I can, especially in winter. I crochet, but rather infrequently. I do the occasional cross stitch, and I dabble in lots of other crafts as well, usually when I’m making gifts. Basically, anything crafty and I’m your girl. I also volunteer with a Brownies unit each week and help out with Guides sometimes. As you can imagine, that involves a plethora of activities.

So that’s my Seamstress Tag! I hope you are enjoying this tag as much as I am, and I hope fellow bloggers will join in. It’s a great way of getting to know everyone ☺️

#OWOP16 – Bettine no. 7

Right, it’s time for some real experimenting now.  A couple of weeks ago, I spotted a hack of Bettine on Instagram that was just the skirt.  It had been re-jigged it somehow so that it had a waistband, and it looked really great.  ‘Who is this genius?’ I hear you saying.  Her name is Helen, and she can be found on Instagram at @helenmenzies – please go check out her makes.  I asked how Helen had done it and she was kind enough to share, so I owe this project entirely to her – it’s not something I would ever have thought to do myself.  Here is Helen’s lovely, sophisticated Bettine skirt.

img_2269

My skirt on the other hand is more on the outrageous side, as you can see.

You’ll have to forgive me for camouflaging in the photos.  Unfortunately everywhere around my house is green.  Well, not unfortunately, usually I don’t mind that at all, but it did make getting photos of this skirt problematic.

The fabric: a slightly outrageous choice, no?  I have a gorgeous brocade-style fabric that I think would be perfect for this skirt, but learning from my disastrous Bettine top hack, I decided not to plunge straight in with the perfect fabric.  Now, this green stuff has been sat in my stash for a while now.  I got it from Resourceful Restoration, a vintage and antiques furniture shop.  Every now and then there’s some fabric up for grabs and I managed to snap up 2.5 metres of this for £20.  I think it’s quite an old fabric, as it’s only 90 centimetres wide.  I was drawn in by the colour and print – I love greens, and I love florals.  The thing about this fabric is that it’s textured.  It has a flocked/velvety/velour feel to it – I guess it was originally some sort of furnishing fabric – so I wasn’t sure what sort of project it would be suited to.  Eventually, I just decided that if it wouldn’t work for a simple skirt it probably wouldn’t work for anything at all.  I decided I’d try for a wearable toile, but I’m not sure how wearable it is.  Thoughts?  Is it too weird?  Anyway,  I do like the shape of the skirt, and this hack has been far more successful than the last one, so I’m going to go ahead and try with my brocade fabric (if I have enough…).

The pattern: a mash up of Bettine and Delphine (even the names sound like they belong together!), both from Tilly and the Buttons.  Delphine is from Tilly’s book, Love at First Stitch (which is brilliant, by the way – highly recommend) and you can see my non-hacked Delphines here.

Modifications: yes, I had to make quite a few.  Firstly, I needed to figure out how to make the two patterns work together and redraft them. Additionally, I added a side zip and a waistband.  I didn’t put pockets in this one – I didn’t think they’d work with the fabric.  I’m going to put a tutorial (of sorts) of this hack at the bottom of this post, so scroll down if you want more detail 🙂

The cost: just the fabric, at £20.  I have some left though, but I’m back to wondering what I could make from it…  I used a zip that was given to me and I already had the thread.

Although I’m unsure on my fabric choice, I’m really happy with how this turned out.  In the right fabric it would be beautiful.  It’s like a tulip-meets-pencil skirt in shape, and I think it would be lovely in woolen fabrics for winter.  We’ve hit September so I’m all over the winter sewing now!

And with this, I come to the end of #OWOP16!  What a great idea One Week One Pattern is – it’s great for showing off a pattern’s versatility and encouraging sewists to be abit more adventurous with hacks.  I’ve loved seeing everyone’s creations, and I’ve added about fifty patterns to my wish list.  I huge thank you to Cinderellis Sews for hosting it this year – it’s been a blast!
How I did it

img_2448

  1. I traced off the front skirt piece of Bettine onto some new tracing paper.
  2. I drew a line 1.5 centimetres down from my Bettine waistline – the waist seam on Bettine is 3 centimetres, and Delphine’s is 1.5, so I needed to even it out somewhere.  This would be my new waistline for Bettine.  I think I could have started further down if I wanted to, as long as the side seams met up somewhere.  Helen’s skirt looks shorter than mine, and I wonder if that’s why – but it could also be that I’m only 5’2″.img_2451
  3. Then I needed to trace off the top part of the Delphine side seam onto my new Bettine piece.  I already had Delphine cut out, so I placed that pattern piece on top of my new Bettine piece, lining the top centre fold corner with the corner of my new waistline.  I traced the Delphine waistline and side seam until it met up with Bettine, as pictured.img_2453If you have not already cut Delphine, I guess you could place the new Bettine piece over the top of Delphine (1.5 centimetres above the Delphine waistline) and trace it off from underneath, if that makes sense?
  4. I trued up the new curve where the two patterns met with my dressmaking ruler – as you can see from the above picture they met at a slightly funny angle.img_2454
  5. Finally, I cut it out and labelled it properly so I’ll know what the heck it is next time I’m rifling though my Bettine envelope.img_2457

And then I sewed it up using this new pattern piece for both the front and the back and the Delphine front waistband piece.  I mashed up the Delphine and Bettine instructions.  I used the Delphine instructions for the waistband and zip (except that I put the zip in the side instead of the back, because I’d omitted the entire back seam), and I followed the Bettine instructions for the hem.  I think next time I sew this it will be super-quick.  Even with all the technical stuff it only took me a few hours, so next time I’ll whiz through it 😀